Travelways

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Island of happiness met with a smile

ONE thing I don't like about travelling is finding myself in a busy market and needing the toilet. In England, there's often no loo roll; in France  there is, but you have to pay. In this busy fruit and vegetable market in Vanuatu, however, I get a pleasant surprise. When I ask a woman where the toilets are, half the market has suddenly clubbed together to ensure my journey is as informative and direct as possible. At a little counter I give 20 Vatu (21) to a smiley man who gives me four sheets of loo roll, then another happy man escorts me to the cubicles. I love these people - or the "ni-Vanuatus'' or "ni-Vans'', as they're known. They're unfailingly polite and always smiling. And it's not for the want of the tourist dollar: tipping in Vanuatu is not recommended because it makes people feel uncomfortable. In this steamy, covered market by the capital, Port Vila's, waterfront, I feel welcome but left alone - much like I do in Vanuatu itself. Women and children sit on woven rugs chatting while prospective buyers turn vegetables slowly in their hands. Famously, Vanuatu has been labelled the happiest country on earth for the past two years, according to the "happy planet index'' published by the New Economics Foundation. It's a curious concept. Sure, this archipelago of 83 islands about three hours' flying time east of Australia is a stunning place to live: fine weather, paradise beaches and lush rainforests. But there are problems here too, I am told, including limited job opportunities, poverty and an at times questionable medical system. From the days I spend here and the people I talk to, I begin to understand that it's the people's relaxed attitude to life and the ties to their land that stand them apart. The ni-Vans have huge respect for their fertile soil, which ensures few go hungry while providing an important connection with ancestors. "If you're stressed out with life, come to Vanuatu and realise what's important - culture, custom, family, time,'' says Australian Justin Johnson, owner of the Moorings Hotel on Vila's waterfront. The overwhelming majority of Vanuatu's 220,000 population is rural, most living in clan-based villages of less than 50 people in rainforests or on narrow coastal strips. The villages are self-sustainable and run by a chief, whose word is law. Even Vanuatu's capital feels like a small country town. There's also a pleasant, faded colonial flavour in the buildings. However, the large number of tourist gift shops is in danger of dampening the local flavour. A fun time to be in Vila is at the end of the working day, when the workers head en masse to the "nakamals'' to drink kava - a pungent, slightly muddy drink made from the kava root. It may also help to explain the happiness thing: kava has calming sedative effects as opposed to the aggression caused by alcohol. Herbal potions are also alive and well here - to stop getting pregnant if you're a teenage girl, or to ward off black magic. "There are very few countries in the world with the custom medicine that exists in this place,'' says Owen Drew, an Australian who has lived here for many years. "Kava is used like valium or as a diuretic, noni juice makes your fingernails and hair grow ... in the bush there's lots and lots of things''. Vila is the perfect jumping-off spot for island resorts, but if you decide to base yourself here, paradise beaches and superb snorkel spots are not far away. To explore some of the best beaches and bays in style, I would recommend a day trip on the Coongoola, a 23-metre wooden sailing ketch built in 1948 that was once the Radio Relay ship for the Sydney-Hobart yacht race. The ship sails across Havannah Harbour to Moso island, a tropical wonderland rimmed with colourful corals. The day also includes a visit to Tranquility Island's hawksbill sea turtle conservatory and a barbecue on Hapi Tok beach, which is pure white coral sand backdropped by jungle-clad mountains. Here, some of us head off for another snorkel, while others enjoy some Tusker beers in the calm water. And as if by request, we even have dolphins for company.